A Night at Winzavod

Night at the Museum is a worldwide event that takes place on the evening of May 17th. Museums across Moscow offered free admission, stayed open until late at night, and celebrated the event in various ways.
I had a great time with our praktikanti at Winzavod, a museum of contemporary art. Like its name suggests (zavod means factory), the museum is located on the site of what used to be a wine factory. Galleries are spread between its buildings. We walked from gallery to gallery and had a look at the sculptures, photographs, paintings, and mixed-media pieces on display. While we were there, a lot was going on – clowns danced to funky music, little kids ran around in cardboard crowns, guests painted murals together, artists worked on paintings in the galleries.

Our praktikantka Polina in a sculpture exhibit

Our praktikantka Polina in a sculpture exhibit


a public mural

a public mural


The pieces at Winzavod were interesting and funny, and the overall atmosphere was so refreshing and hip compared to the other museum experiences that we have had so far. It felt more like a big party than anything else, and that was super fun.
Look familiar? Hint: think Repin.

Look familiar? Or, well, kind of familiar? Hint: think Repin.


My favorite piece was this one by Mikhail Gulin called “Poproshu ne putat’!”/”Please don’t confused the two!”
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The text reads, “Whose dots are these? These dots are Damien Hirst’s!”


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“And whose dots are these? These dots are Yayoi Kusama’s!”


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I thought it was pretty funny.


If Night at the Museum’s goal is to get young people to be more interested in museums, then Winzavod certainly did its job.

Life in the Dorms

MSU's main building at night

MSU’s main building at night


I live in this building. Really, I do. I’m still having a hard time believing it. The glavnoe zdanie (main building) is a massive, beautiful Soviet-era structure that houses thousands of students, a concert hall, cafes, cafeterias, a hairdresser’s, a laundry service, a flower shop, several small grocery shops, a pharmacy… the list goes on. The entirety of Carleton could probably fit inside.
A little bit about what it’s like to live in the dorms: each floor has what I call “floor moms” – older women who are on duty in a room adjacent to the lounge for most of the day. They are responsible for signing us in and out of our rooms at the beginning and end of our stay, as well as maintaining floor rules and dealing with any problems we may have.
What’s in our lounge? Many potted plants, some armchairs, and an antique table. Frequently seen in the lounge – Klaus, the floor cat. He’s pretty shy, but very cute. Also spotted somewhat often – one of the residents’ toddler, who carries a toy shovel and hates to get in the elevator. One of his favorite phrases is “Не хочу!!!!”/ “I don’t wanna!!!!”
Each room on the floor is really a block, with two single bedrooms, an entryway, a toilet-room, and a shower-room. The floor kitchen is directly across the hallway from my block, and several days out of the week I’ll smell boiling dumplings and drool a little bit.
A view of the main entrance from my room.

A view of the main entrance from my room.

Vrubel at the Tretyakov

A moment when I felt really proud of myself during these first two weeks in Moscow was when I managed to find the Tretyakov Gallery on my own (with the help of some directions from fellow group-members beforehand). I have a horrible sense of direction, so bad that I actually mix left and right up on a semi-regular basis. Walking from Red Square to the gallery, there were a couple of points when I felt uncertain about where I was going, but I went with my gut, and ended up at 10 Lavrushinsky pereulok without getting lost.
Once inside, I stopped worrying about where I was going and wandered somewhat aimlessly through the gallery’s many rooms. Before my visit to the Tretyakov I knew shamefully little about Russian artists and art movements, and so my first introduction to Mikhail Vrubel was when I stumbled into a large hall with dark walls, lofty ceilings, and gorgeous paintings.
Vrubel was active as a painter and muralist during the late 19th century, and took icons, flowers, princesses, and demons as subject matter. His art is beautiful, dark, and deeply emotional. Each painting is dreamlike, and many recall myths and fairy-tales.
It’s hard for me to choose a favorite work from the Vrubel section of the gallery, but I found Lilacs particularly impressive.

GUM

When I first visited Red Square, I was (of course) impressed by everything about it. I had a very strong emotional response to finally seeing St. Basil’s in person, and the Kremlin is obviously a big deal. While the post-card places on the square are definitely worth a visit (or two, or three…), to my surprise what really stole my heart on Red Square was the GUM – a shopping complex.

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a view inside the GUM on Red Square


GUM stands for State Department Store, and this one has been around since it was built by architect Alexander Pomerantsev in the late 1890s (Brooke 45).
I’ve had my share of shopping malls (I work in the Mall of America), and this one is by far my favorite. With a glass ceiling, a fountain, and flowering trees, it is incredibly light and airy. It feels like spring in a fairy-tale.
See if you can spot two designer brands.

See if you can spot two designer brands.


Two must-sees are:
  • Stolovaya No. 57, a cafeteria on the 3rd floor that serves delicious food and has a Soviet-style soda vending machine.
  • Gastronome No. 1, an upscale grocery store with chandeliers, marble arches, and a jaw-dropping amount of just about everything.

While the shops here are very expensive (think Dior, Tiffany & Co.), GUM is still a wonderful place to walk around, window-shop, and until things start to turn green, pretend that it’s spring.
 
For more information, GUM has its own website (in both Russian and English).
 Caroline Brooke, Moscow: A Cultural History (New York: Oxford University Press, 2006)