Russian Diminutives

Anyone who has ever read Russian literature knows that Russian has the wonderful capability of taking an ordinary name like Aleksander and turning it into a plethora of nicknames. Sasha, Shurya, Sanya, Alex. They all mean Aleksander. However, diminutives can be made from many words, not just proper nouns. I first realized the full scope of this power when we visited Lake Baikal and were sitting on a cliff overlooking the lake, with our eyes peeled for fresh water seals (or nerpa). A man who was with us on our tour easily took the word nerpa and made it into nerpochka, his own special seal-call. I was impressed at the speed with which he was able to call the nerpa by this adorable name. And a little jealous, because English really does not afford the opportunity for these diminutives.

The nerpochka. Source: www.owasia.ru

Nerpochka. Source: www.owasia.ru


Another one of my favorite Russian diminutives is the word for a Christmas tree (or New Year’s tree here in Russia). A fir tree is a ёл (yol) while a little Christmas tree is a ёлочка (yolochka). There is something very sweet about the word yolochka that Christmas tree really does not convey. For further evidence, watch the video below. Pretty much anything seemingly can be made into a diminutive. A small plate? Tarelochka. A small book? Knizhka. Apparently, diminutives are used to convey smallness (as in size), affection, irony, and apparently even disparagement (source: http://www.funrussian.com/2013/02/01/russian-diminutive-nouns/). Regardless of how they are used, they offer a fun opportunity for playing with language that I envy.

Delicious Fish

While I have eaten many delicious meals in Moscow, one of the best parts of my culinary experiences thus far has definitely been the fish we ate on Lake Baikal. Baikal is famous for its fish. The jelly-like golomyanka, who live in the depths of lake, are endemic to Lake Baikal and do not live anywhere else in the world. Up to thirty five percent of their body mass is made up of fatty oil. The fish can endure extreme pressure changes and are found at all depths of the lake. However, since they do not travel in packs, they are extremely difficult to catch. Thus, I did not have the opportunity to taste any golomyanka, which is not a huge problem as we were told that they are extremely difficult to prepare and must be done so properly to avoid health risks.

The golomyanka. Source: club-kayak.ru

The golomyanka. Source: club-mayak.ru


I did have the opportunity to try the delicious omul, a succulent variety of fish known for its tenderness. We had omul after a delightfully freezing dip into Lake Baikal followed by the warmth of a natural hot spring. It was truly one of most delicious meals I have had the pleasure of eating. We starting with уха (uha), a fish soup made by boiling whole fish with potatoes and onions. Our version was prepared over an open fire by our wonderful guide Evgeni Dmitrievich. We also had roasted omul, prepared by splitting open the fish, gutting them, and placing them on sticks around the fire. Evgeni Dmitrievich told us this fish was to serve as dessert. While at first I was skeptical, the delicious flavor of the fish truly was sweet. Fresh bread roasted to make toast over the open flames was the final touch to an extremely wonderful meal.
I have never even considered myself much of a fan of fish; however, the fish of Baikal will long remain in my memory as a delicious part of Russia’s culinary offerings.
Source: http://baikal.irkutsk.org/animals.htm

Faith in Practice

Lake Baikal is considered to be one of the most sacred places in the world to the Buryat people and to many Russians as well. We explored some of these places during our two week visit to Siberia. On Olkhon Island, located nearly in the middle of Lake Baikal, our hotel was next to the sacred Cape of Burhan. On a hill outcrop overlooking the cape is a row of wooden poles decorated with bright pieces of silk or cotton. These poles, known as сэргэ (sergei) in Russian after the Buryat word, are signs that there is a хозяйн or spirit-host located at a particular site. A faded sign located directly in front of the poles informs visitors who are patient enough to make out its message that trespassing on the site is strictly forbidden. Clearly most people had not read the sign because many people were walking around the sacred poles and taking pictures. This experience caused me to begin thinking about the problems associated with visiting religious sites when one is a tourist, particularly when one is of a different faith than the sites one is visiting.
The first time I encountered this issue was back in Moscow when we started visiting Russian Orthodox churches. While I have attended many church services back in the United States, going to church in Russia is a completely different experience. From the decorations to the method of worship to the smells of the incense, the churches in Russia are far from the stark stained glass windows of the church I attended growing up. I am never sure how to act at these churches. I wish to be both respectful (in showing that I understand the traditions, such as covering my head) without overstepping the boundary of being overly involved in a religious practice that is not my own.

The sergei (sacred poles). Photo credit: tripadvisor.ru

The sergei at the Cape of Burhan (sacred poles). Photo credit: tripadvisor.ru


The issue of faith in practice came up again on our tour of Olkhon Island. Our tour guide, who practices Shamanism, was very distressed at the appearance of rock cairns at many of the sacred sites on the island. These rock cairns are built over time by people adding one rock when they visit a site to slowly build a pyramid. When we first saw the pyramids, I thought they were a pretty addition to the landscape. However, our tour guide started knocking the cairns over, clearly distraught at their appearance at some of the most sacred sites. She explained to us that these pyramids are not part of Shaman tradition and that to those who practice Shamanism, every rock has its own unique spot on the earth and to move it is to perform a sacrilegious act. While to us it is perfectly natural to bend down and pick up a rock, to our tour guide this act was highly offensive. I can understand her frustration; however, I also understand the motives of tourists who helped build these pyramids. Most likely, they did not understand the traditions and felt motivated to participate in what they thought was part of the traditional way of worshipping at these sites.
The ways of showing respect vary from place to place. However, I believe that sacred sites are sacred for all, regardless of religious affiliation. Everyone can experience a holy site; it is the role of a tourist to do a little research to understand how to experience the holy (or whatever one would like to call it) in a respectful way.

МЧС России (The Ministry of Emergency Situations)

When I was little, we were taken on a tour of the fire station. It was exciting to see the different tools the firemen used, hold the large spray hoses, and put on a firemen suit. Imagine this same situation, only now the tour is in Russian and the facility is not only a fire station, but the Siberian Regional Center of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and you can imagine the experience we had yesterday morning. The МЧС responds to natural disasters in the same way that FEMA does in the United States. However, I also got the impression from this tour that responders are involved in rescue efforts of individuals in much the same way as alpine rescue units in the U.S. 
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Beyond learning the basic tools required for rescue operations in Siberia and some chilling reminders of the work members of the МЧС complete, we were also given an insight into the incredible time and dedication it takes to become an emergency responder with the МЧС. Our tour guide told us that he has multiple degrees and considers himself to hold as many as twenty different occupations, including driver and gynecologist. He took us around the training complex for the МЧС and we got to see the rock climbing wall (which responders must be able to scale in under two minutes and repel down in under 40 seconds), the pool, diving equipment, and capsules designed specifically to simulate the experience of being underwater for an extended period of time.

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Obviously not my photo as it is not fall here but a nice picture of the center nonetheless. Source: www.tuvaonline.ru


Water is especially important to the Siberian division of the МЧС as it is located right on the banks of Lake Baikal and many of their rescue operations involve water. We were reassured that for helicopter drivers no landing is impossible, be it on land, water, or ice. We saw rescue boats that can cross the lake in twenty minutes (a staggeringly fast time) and on which two twin boys were born in a storm. Diving is also a serious part of responders’ job and every Thursday is “diving day,” during which responders practice diving in order to stay on top of their training.
The tour was a very interesting contrast to our  earlier experiences at Lake Baikal. We have been focusing our attention on the history of settlement as well as sacred sites around the lake. And yet, there is another side to the lake that I am beginning to see here in Irkutsk. For members of the МЧС, the lake can be a force to be reckoned with. Hearing about the training these men (and it is almost all men, because women are not suited for the job, according to our tour guide–but that’s another blog post,) go through has made me confident that, should we encounter a problem, they could probably handle it. 

Gramicidin S

When I woke up one morning with a sore throat here in Russia, the usual thoughts crossed my mind. Was it a cold? Could it be strep throat? Should I go to the doctor? After assessing the situation, I decided that no, it was not strep throat (or perhaps I was just terrified at the possibility of explaining to a doctor that I thought I had стрептококковое, roughly transliterated as streptokokkovoe). Luckily for me, our friend Lera was able to help me at the drug store and recommend some tablets that I could take. This in and of itself may sound pretty routine. However, the experience highlighted to me some of the major differences between the health care system in the United States and the health care system in Russia. Here, prescriptions are not required to purchase antibiotics and the difference in price between prescription drugs here and back home is astounding. Since health care is such an important and controversial issue back in the United States, I have found the attitude here to be especially interesting. Obviously, a fair comparison of these health care systems would require much more space than a blog post and someone who understands the system in the U.S. way better than I do. However, it is definitely a major difference that has caused me to examine the way things are done back at home.

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Gause


Back to the sore throat (because my mom might be reading this and wanting to know what these mysterious pills are that I took): being my mother’s daughter, I did my research before I took the magical throat pills and discovered that there is actually a very interesting history behind Gramicidin S. The antibiotic was discovered by Georgii Frantsevitch Gause and his wife Maria Brazhnikova in 1942. Gause was working as an ecologist when the Second World War broke in 1939. He started working for national defense, began collaborating with the Disinfection Institute and helped establish a laboratory for work on antibiotics. Within two years, he and his wife had isolated the strain of bacteria that would eventually become Gramicidin S. The antibiotic was already being used on the front lines in 1943. Gause eventually won the Stalin Prize for Medicine in 1946. (Gall and Konashev).
Sources:
Gall, Yasha M. and Konashev, Mikhail B. “The Discovery of Gramicidin S: the Intellectual Transformation of G.F. Gause From Biologist to Researcher of Antibiotics and on its Meaning for the Fate of Russian Genetics.” History and Philosophy of the Life Sciences, Vol. 23, No. 1, 2003, pp. 137-150. Accessed through JSTOR.

Landscapes: Ulan-Ude

I am sure that most people have a mental image when they picture Siberia–snow, frost, perhaps just the word “cold.” I knew that Siberia would be different than Moscow. What I didn’t know was that it would remind me so much of my hometown. I live in Colorado and I love the mountains, the pine trees, and the open skies that make my state so beautiful. When we first arrived in Ulan-Ude, the capital of Buryatia, I was shocked to find that it looks a lot like Colorado. At every bend in the road it seemed as if I was seeing a little piece of home. Ulan-Ude is located in central Asia, not far from the border of Mongolia. Summers here are hot and winters are very cold. In general, there is little to suggest that the countryside around Ulan-Ude should remind me so much of Colorado, and perhaps it is just homesickness speaking. However, if there is one thing I am learning here in Buryatia, it is that landscapes play a very important, often sacred, role in people’s lives. The landscape here has certainly touched me already.

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Ulan-Ude from above


One of the things that makes Ulan-Ude quite a bit like Colorado is the mountains. Located 2000 feet above sea level at the base of the Khamar-Daban and Khrebet Ulan-Burgasy mountain ranges, the city seems to be embraced by mountains from every side. Another thing that reminds me of home here is the proliferation of pine trees. However, whereas in Colorado pine trees grow side-by-side with aspens, here the ubiquitous березы (birches) can be seen growing all along the roadside. I am curious how much of the landscape is natural and whether or not these trees are native to this part of the country. The air here is much cleaner than in Moscow and in places smells exactly like summers spent outside in Colorado, a mixture of sap, dried pine-needles, and sweet drying grass. I’ve even seen signs by the side of the road warning of forest fire, the exact same signs we have at home, only in Russian. Coming to Siberia has been, in some ways, like coming home.
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My hometown

The Russian National Anthem

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A national anthem is more than just a song; it is a reflection of the ideas, history, and stories that a country considers significant. The Russian National Anthem has undergone many different iterations. Some of these we were familiar with due to our coursework at Carleton. However, the story of the Russian national anthem dates back to the early days of Kievan Rus’ and travels forward in time to present day. We learned all about the national anthem at the Glinka Museum of Musical Culture during Moscow’s Night at the Museum event. The exhibit was very well done. The majority of content was presented using video screens and audio technology because, after all, it is difficult to present music visually.

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An interior view of the exhibit. Photo courtesy of the Glinka museum: http://glinka.museum/news/index.php?news=22457


As visitors, we were taken on a journey through time and sound. What I enjoyed most about the exhibit was its ability to pack quite a bit of history into short segments. However, I also really liked the museum’s approach to exploring not just the history of the Russian National Anthem, but the idea of a national anthem in general. The museum linked the idea of an anthem to other patriotic symbols, such as a crest or a flag. To me, this is an apt description. When people sing a national anthem, they are doing more than just singing words on a page. There is a reason that people become emotional when signing their national anthem. It is a patriotic act (or at least it can be).
We were all caught off guard when we heard the stirring tune that Americans identify as “My Country ‘Tis of Thee,” Brits call “God Save the Queen,” and apparently was the tune of Russia’s anthem “Боже, Царя храни” (God Save the Tsar) until a different melody was employed in 1833. Instead of “let freedom ring” or “God save the Queen” this version of the song ends with (aptly) “God save the tsar.” To hear the tune, click below:

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A view of the outside of the museum. Photo courtesy of Glinka Museum (http://glinka.museum/news/index.php?news=22457)

At the end of the exhibit, all the viewers were invited onto a stage to be filmed while singing the anthem as part of a national project to create a virtual choir. I am not sure if we were supposed to be part of this choir or not (as foreigners). The Russian National Anthem is no easier to sing than the United States’ Anthem and I found myself jumping octaves between the verses and the refrain. Nonetheless, I am hopeful that our contribution to the choir will not be detrimental to the overall effect.
 
 

Living Language Part Two (Or How I Ended Up Buying Two Pies)

There is a big difference between purchasing two pieces of pie and purchasing two whole pies. Most people would think this is apparent. In fact, it should be basic. However, when I decided yesterday morning that it was the perfect morning for пирог, the delicious Russian pie-like pastry that is a distant cousin of the British pasty, I thought that the very kind woman behind the counter would somehow realize that there was no way I wanted to eat two whole pies by myself. I was wrong. After informing me that they were out of apple (my first choice), she told me that they had a delicious four berry pie fresh out of the oven. This sounded wonderful to me. Then I made the fatal error. I decided that perhaps one piece was not enough and ordered a second. But, instead of asking for «один кусочек» (one piece) I proclaimed that I wanted «пирог с яблоками» (apple pie). I meant that generally, I wanted a piece of the apple pie.
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A few minutes later (after disappearing behind the counter to retrieve my pies), the waitress informed me that she would wrap my pies up in boxes. I thought that was slightly strange, seeing as there really should not have been that much pie to wrap up, but nodded enthusiastically. The pies appeared in their beautiful boxes. I gulped nervously. Clearly there was way more pie in those boxes than I could eat. However, unwilling to admit defeat, I paid for my pies (which were quite a bargain!) and headed home.
The story continues. I had planned on saving the pies to share with my classmates. But that pie was calling my name. It was so warm and smelled delicious. I could not help myself. I dug in to the four berry pie. The fresh berries dripped down my fingers, the soft crust crumbled in my fingers, and that was it. For the rest of day I dreamt about that pie. We went out to the ballet, returned, and I was still thinking about it. Dinner came and went. The pie was sitting in my room. I thought, “just one more piece.” That was a mistake. An hour later, the pie was devoured. Sure, I had a bit of help from my trusty friends Dilara and Lera. But really it was a solo effort.
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Good thing I made that mistake and bought two so the rest of our group could have some later! For anyone interested in sampling some of the pies (if you happen to be in Moscow) or for those back home who want to browse the options (apparently you can order online, although I do not think they deliver to the U.S.), here is a link to the cafe’s website.

Exploring the Metro (Website)

As I was preparing to write about another blog post topic, I happened upon the Moscow Metro website. Curious as to what I might find, I began digging around. It turns out that there is quite a bit of useful information on this page. For example, if you are curious as to the temperature of the air at any of the stations (and really, you should be because it is important to find the cool stations now that temperatures are climbing into the ’80s), you will find that information here.
More seriously, there is information here about what to do should you fall on the tracks, what to do if someone is misbehaving on the metro and what to do if you forget your things on the metro. The website also answered one of my long held questions about kids riding on the metro. I keep seeing kids rushing ahead of their parents onto the metro and I wandered whether or not this is allowed. Turns out, according to the official rules of the metro, children under seven ride for free.
To answer some other frequently asked questions:
-You can have a dog on the metro if it is a service dog or in an enclosed container (such as a purse)
-You are not allowed to do anything on the metro that “мешает” the other passengers (a verb that means to do things that annoy other people). From personal experience, I can say that people do not always follow this rule.
-You must wear your shoes on the metro.
-Videotape without written permission is forbidden.
-Musical instruments ride for free (unlike on many airplanes).
There is also a place on the website for passengers to write in questions. Many people complain about the escalators being closed in busy stations (there are usually two escalators and often one of them is closed down). Apparently the decision to open the escalators is based off of close analysis of passenger movement.
The Moscow metro is truly a remarkable system (despite the qualms some of the passengers on the website raised). I am not the first person to write about the metro system; however, I think it is important to understand just how accessible the metro makes Moscow. It is truly an amazing resource.
And for anyone who is interested, here is a video about working in the metro:

King Lear

My high school English teacher insisted that one day we would be thankful that he made us read King Lear. I was skeptical. And then we attended a performance of the play in Russian and the moment came: I was indeed quite happy that I had read Shakespeare’s work about a father descending into insanity. Having read the play, I was able to attempt to follow the performance. This was the third theatrical production I have seen in Russia and it is always a challenge. I have to use all of my energy to try to keep up with the dialogue and avoid falling into the trap of thinking too much about that one word that I heard but forgot the meaning of.
In an attempt to explain what my brain goes through when listening to Russian theatreI present King Lear: The Limited Comprehension Version. There is a famous soliloquy in the play in which King Lear is starting to lose his mind. A storm is brewing. Here is what I heard when listening in Russian:
Blow, winds and (something) your cheeks! Do (something)! Blow!
You (something) and hurricanes, do (something)!
Till you have (something) our steeples, (something) the (somethings)!
You (some kind of) fires
(Something) to (some kind) of thunderbolts.
Difficult indeed. The thing is, there is more to theatre than language and some of the most powerful parts of the performance were when the actors performed without speaking. This was a contemporary performance, complete with modern dance, rap music, and plenty of symbolism that I am afraid went over my head. The performance was at the Satirikon Theatre. To see pictures of the production, click here. Regardless of the difficulties,  I greatly enjoyed the performance and am hopeful that the next time I read King Lear I will have a new appreciation for this work of art.