An Abram in Buryatia

I had no idea what to expect from Siberia. All I could imagine was a massive lake, surrounding wilderness, and trappers hunting sable on hand-made skis. I knew I would encounter Shamanism, Buddhism, and Old Russian Orthodoxy. To my surprise, I also encountered a whole lot of Jewish names on our tours of Ulan-Ude and Barguzin, and even a Jewish cemetery.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A gravestone with Hebrew lettering in the Barguzin cemetery (and a wake-up call for how rough my Hebrew has gotten)


My first reaction was, “Why? [would Jews decide to settle in Siberia]???”
The answer our tour guides gave us was, “Gold.”
The majority of Jews who ended up in Buryatia had actually been exiled there, some as early as the middle of the 17th-century from Poland during the Russo-Polish War, but once they arrived they began to establish themselves as successful merchants in the area. One such merchant was especially interesting to me, in part because he shares a somewhat rare first-name with my younger brother, Abram.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Abram Novomeisky’s gravestone in Barguzin.


Abram Novomeisky was one of the two biggest gold-mine owners in Siberia. He was a businessman, a patron of the arts, and a proponent of advancing mining technologies, and was well-respected by the people of the Barguzin Valley. When he died in the early 20th century, villagers carried his body on their shoulders 7 whole kilometers to his burial-place in Barguzin.
An interesting article about Barguzin that includes information about some of the Jews who lived there.

The Most Beautiful Place in the World

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Barguzin Valley has got to be the most beautiful place that I have ever seen. Snow-capped mountains stand in every direction, and take on a wonderful blue hue from a distance. The rivers and streams that run and bubble through are incredibly clean, clear, and cold, the way Siberian water should be.
There’s something that’s just perfect about it – the way the sun makes the water shimmer, the indescribable green of the trees and bushes. Even a dilapidated bridge is lovely here.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Bridge over the Ina River


There’s also something ancient about it – the rocks scattered across the steppe, the unforgiving winds. As we rattled along on a dirt road through the valley chewing on serra gum*, I imagined the Mongols and Evenks who lived here a long time ago.  The name of the valley comes from the word “Bargut,” which means “wilderness,” and was the name of the Mongolian tribe that lived here. It’s said that Genghis Khan’s mother was born in Barguzin Valley. Today, 30,000 people live in this spectacular place.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA         OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
*a natural gum made from the resin of Siberian larch trees. And yes, it does taste like chewing on a tree (in a good way).

Watery Gods and a Sacred Rock

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Father Baikal is a mighty sea. A long time ago, he was happy, and so were all of his 336 river-children – all except the beautiful Angara, who Baikal loved the most. He wanted her to marry the calm Irkut, but she wanted nothing to do with him. She had fallen in love with a strong and swift warrior river named Yenesei. One night, while Baikal was fast asleep, Angara ran away to be with her lover. Baikal awoke and became angry, stormy and rough. He broke off a chunk of mountain in a rage, and hurled it at Angara to block her path. Angara flowed into the arms of Yenesei, and Shaman Rock landed in her waters.
That’s how the legend goes. Or at least my version – like a good mythical tale it has its variations. The other day, we were able to look at Shaman Rock from the bank of the Angara River outside of Irkutsk. Shaman Rock is one of many sacred places on and around Lake Baikal, and has traditionally served as a place to make offerings to the Lake. Hearing the story of daughter Angara got me thinking about river-gods or spirits. In Buryatian legends, lakes and rivers are gods with human-like personalities and desires. It reminds me of the warring rivers of Homer’s Iliad, and of a monument that we had seen in St. Petersburg. At the base of the Rostral Columns sit Russia’s four major rivers – the Volga, the Dnieper, the Volkhov, and the Neva – in human form.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
It’s interesting to think of a body of water as one living organism – it breathes in and out and it moves, and it’s easy to imagine the ice-cold and beautifully clean  Baikal watershed as supernatural.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
 
Screen Shot 2014-06-06 at 7.37.28 AM
In my dreams of river-gods and Old Father Baikal, everything is on a gargantuan scale, so seeing Shaman Rock in person was strange. I squinted out onto the water, wondering where it was. Could that really be it? That little thing? It turns out that during the 1950s, new hydroelectric dams raised the water level and submerged most of the rock (Thomson, 171).
Thomson, Peter. “Sacred Sea: A Journey to Lake Baikal.” Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2007. 

The Old Wooden House

At this point, I have been up and down Old Arbat Street several times. As I am walking, I seek out one spot, and my eyes linger on it as I walk past. This spot is actually a house – an old wooden house that seems incredibly out of place in the center of Moscow.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The spot.


Through a little research I found out that the house is called Dom Porokhovshchikova, after A.A. Porokhovshchikov, who built the old-Russian-style home. He was a well-known builder, publisher, and philanthropist who worked in Moscow during the 1870s, and took part in the construction of the original Cathedral of Christ the Saviour.
While it is a beautiful piece of architecture, it is also a sad place. Up until a couple of years ago, A.A. Porokhovshchikov’s grandson, the actor and director Aleksandr Poroshchnikov, lived in the house on a long-term lease from the city of Moscow (the house’s owner). His health began to deteriorate rapidly in spring of 2012, and while he was in the hospital his wife Irina, who was 23 years his junior, hanged herself in the house. He died about a month later from his illness, not knowing what had happened.
This strangely fascinating building now houses a restaurant, a billiard hall, and private apartments.
 
 

Bubliks and Bagels

The food item that I miss the most from home is a bagel with cream cheese. Whenever I’m home for break I end up eating one every day (sometimes more…) Weirdly enough, I didn’t even really think about trying to find any in Moscow until a couple of days ago. I did a little research and found a place near the university called Bublik Shop, and yesterday morning I set out to find the melty cream-cheese bagel of my dreams.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Looks promising! And hip – “bublikoteka”


Once inside, I realized that Bublik Shop was more of a bakery/cafe than what would be considered a bagel shop in the US. Rather than baskets filled with bagels behind the counters and various cream cheeses on display, there was a variety of baked goods (which looked incredibly delicious). There were several bubliki out on the counter, and I grabbed the first one I saw. I scanned the menu for cream cheese, and instead I found a “бейгл”/beygel with lox. I decided to get that, too, and compare the beygel with the bublik.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

a plain bublik


First up – the bublik. It was really tasty, but of course very different from the bagels that I am used to snarfing down. The hole is much larger than an American bagel’s, though that may not be evident from the picture above. The texture was closer to that of challah bread, and like the challah bread that I’m used to, it had an egg sheen.
My bagel with lox.

My bagel with lox.


And  next – the bagel, which was closer in shape to an American-style bagel. Again, very delicious, with a crunchy/fried crust (much more oily than any bagel I’ve had before), lox, greens, and horse-radish. When I spotted something creamy and white, I gasped and thought that maybe, just maybe, there was cream cheese, but it turned out to be sour cream. All the same, it was a great sandwich.
Fun fact – Bublik Shop offers a 20% discount for students, seniors, and families with a lot of children.

Sky Lanterns

The beauty of successfully launched sky lanterns 


Lighting up and releasing nebesnie fonariki, or sky lanterns, is a beautiful tradition that I first noticed on Victory Day. After the amazing fireworks, I saw the warm light of a couple of lanterns that were floating away into the sky.
This last weekend, Lera got our group a couple to send off as a way to celebrate the end of classes. Each of us thought of a wish that we wanted to make, and set out to the front end of the GZ with our fonariki and some matches. I had noticed that lantern-lighting can be a bit difficult when I saw someone making an unsuccessful attempt on Victory Day, and it did turn out to be pretty tricky.
The way fonariki work is that you hold the lantern upside-down and light the fuel (in our case waxy combustible square), attached to the base of the lantern by metal wire, on fire in order to fill it up and make it buoyant.
Screen Shot 2014-05-21 at 2.40.21 PM
We tried our best, but the wind had other plans. One big gust and a little bit of screaming later, the flaming square of lye was on the ground, and Chet had already fashioned the paper part of the lantern into a hat. Lera reminded us that the first blini is always bad, and we began to set up our second lantern. (nearby the lye was still burning on the ground). The second one did go better than the first, and we let our fonarik off into the night. Here’s a video of the exciting moment –

What you don’t see is what happened a few minutes later, when we started to realize that the lantern was on fire and that it was falling back down to earth some distance away. We decided that what mattered was that our fonarik had been in the sky even for a little bit, and that our wishes would still come true.

The Beloved Not-Good Apartment

Today we got to see apartment No. 50 on Sadovaya Street.

the door to the not-good apartment

the door to the not-good apartment


This is where author Mikhail Bulgakov lived, and a very important place in his novel The Master and Margarita. The devil and his entourage take over the apartment, which already has a reputation as a place from which people disappear, and make its reputation even stranger by using it as their headquarters for spreading chaos in Moscow. The author refers to No. 50 as the nekhoroshaya kvartira, or the not-good apartment.
Gretchen and I standing in No. 50's stairwell. Thanks to our praktikantka Olya for taking the photo!

Gretchen and I standing in No. 50’s stairwell. Thanks to our praktikantka Olya for taking the photo!


The graffiti that covers the stairwell’s walls shows the deep connection that people have with this place, with Bulgakov, and with The Master and Margarita. You can see several versions of each of the main characters, quotes from the novel in Russian and in English…
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Woland 


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A version of Queen Margarita


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Behemoth getting on the tram


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Natasha and Nikolai Ivanovich


portraits of Bulgakov…
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
plus your typical “I was here” graffiti. Stepping inside the stairwell gave me the feeling that I was in a special place.
Before even entering the apartment itself, I felt just how loved No. 50 on Sadovaya Street has become.

The Kremlin's "Secret" Gardens

The Kremlin is the heart of Moscow. It is an incredible, bewitching place. Poet Mikhail Lermontov put it this way:

“neither the Kremlin nor its crenellated walls, nor its dark passages, nor the splendid palaces can be described. They must be seen, they must be seen. One must feel all that they say to the heart and the imagination,” (Brooke, 1).

We were finally able to visit the Kremlin this last weekend and see several of its sacred places and objects, including the building in which Stalin lived, the Tsar Bell and the Tsar Cannon, the building that Putin works in, and the striking Cathedral Square. To my surprise, my favorite place in the Kremlin ended up being Taynitsky Gardens, named for the nearby Taynitskaya Tower. Taynitsky means “secret,” and the secret of the Tower was a hidden well and a passageway to the Moscow River. They were both done away  with (filled up and blocked off, respectively) during the Stalin period. The Gardens themselves used to be the site of a church, though that too was demolished after the 1917 Revolution.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
The sweet smell of lilacs pulled me into the park. The day we took our tour was unusually chilly and wet, but the Gardens still glowed with beauty. Tulips were in full bloom, and everything looked fresh and green. It is a colorful, lovely place.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA               OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Taynitskaya Tower


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Sneaking a peek at Putin’s helipad from the park.

A Night at Winzavod

Night at the Museum is a worldwide event that takes place on the evening of May 17th. Museums across Moscow offered free admission, stayed open until late at night, and celebrated the event in various ways.
I had a great time with our praktikanti at Winzavod, a museum of contemporary art. Like its name suggests (zavod means factory), the museum is located on the site of what used to be a wine factory. Galleries are spread between its buildings. We walked from gallery to gallery and had a look at the sculptures, photographs, paintings, and mixed-media pieces on display. While we were there, a lot was going on – clowns danced to funky music, little kids ran around in cardboard crowns, guests painted murals together, artists worked on paintings in the galleries.

Our praktikantka Polina in a sculpture exhibit

Our praktikantka Polina in a sculpture exhibit


a public mural

a public mural


The pieces at Winzavod were interesting and funny, and the overall atmosphere was so refreshing and hip compared to the other museum experiences that we have had so far. It felt more like a big party than anything else, and that was super fun.
Look familiar? Hint: think Repin.

Look familiar? Or, well, kind of familiar? Hint: think Repin.


My favorite piece was this one by Mikhail Gulin called “Poproshu ne putat’!”/”Please don’t confused the two!”
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The text reads, “Whose dots are these? These dots are Damien Hirst’s!”


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

“And whose dots are these? These dots are Yayoi Kusama’s!”


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I thought it was pretty funny.


If Night at the Museum’s goal is to get young people to be more interested in museums, then Winzavod certainly did its job.

May 9th

When we set out the morning of May 9th to celebrate Victory Day, the holiday that commemorates the Red Army’s victory over the Nazis in World War II (called the Great Patriotic War by most Russians), I didn’t really know what to expect. Once we had been walking around Moscow for a while, I couldn’t help but draw comparisons with my experiences of Independence Day in Boston and of Bastille Day in Paris. There were a lot of similarities – the massive crowds of people, the ice-cream, jets flying overhead, patriotic emotions, music, fireworks, and of course a sunburn.

Jets paint the Russian flag across the sky

Jets paint the Russian flag across the sky


What stood out to me the most about Victory Day was the huge amount of respect that Russians give to their veterans. It’s a common practice to carry a poster with the photo and name of a relative who served. Veterans go out in uniform. Signs in the metro read something along the lines of, “Today we stop, we remember, we feel proud.” My favorite moment during the course of the day was when I saw a little boy giving a veteran a traditional red carnation, and noticing that the boy’s eyes were all lit up and that his mouth was agape in awe. I think that this really shows the nature of Victory Day, the immense amount of pride that Russians have for their military, and the respect that youth have for older generations.
A choir dressed in period-uniforms, carrying red carnations and singing "Katyusha"

A choir dressed in period-uniforms, carrying red carnations and singing “Katyusha”


We finished off the day by watching the Salute (fireworks) in Sparrow Hills, right on the river.