Expectations

Once I arrived at our home stay, I really didn’t know what to expect. Our surrounding in Ulan Ude were not what I was expecting of Siberia, which seemed – before this trip – to have an ingrained image of snow-caped forests of evergreens and permafrost. As we stepped into our home stay with Ksenia and started to get a hold of our surroundings in their two bedroom apartment Polina, Ksenia’s five year old daughter, poked her head into the room where we were unpacking. She was naturally curious about the three really tall people that had entered her home. After a little bit of skittishness and some pushing by her mother, she introduced herself. After this we played a wonderful fairy tale board game with her, which she won, naturally.
 
A day later, when we headed to their dacha, Polina grabbed my hand and started leading me away towards the forest just outside their fences. I asked where we were headed, and she said we were going to find a dog. We noticed a older couple moseying along and Polina waved and said hello, and they did the same. However, after wandering around for a while it was fairly clear that we weren’t going to find a dog. To make matters worse, when I asked her if she knew the way back, she said that she had forgotten. Whoops.

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See that forest? We were lost in that. I was slightly concerned.


I, being fantastically awful with directions, needed to find our way home to the dacha that I had only seen once in my life for a few fleeting moments. For a second I was terrified, but then realized that we couldn’t have walked that far. After a bit of adventure, running through the forest, and a touch of, “Wait, is this the right way?”, we eventually climbed over the logs just outside the fence of the dacha and dashed back in.
 
Sometimes, all one needs is a leap of faith to get to know someone, and then there’s a bit of getting lost on the way, but it ends up being a pretty great ride. Getting the chance to do that on a trip to Siberia after a chance meeting in a home stay and then getting lost in the woods was the last thing I was expecting, but I wouldn’t have had it any other way.
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Bad Roads are Good for Baikal

Tour guide Andrei Suknev, quoted in Peter Thomson’s book Sacred Sea, utters the above noble truth about the roads around Lake Baikal.  During his travels around the lake, Peter Thomson encountered the same kind of bone-rattling trails that we traversed a week ago at Ust-Barguzin. To our dismay, it turns out that the infrastructure is largely the same around all of Baikal.

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The roads aren’t THAT bad.

Yesterday, we took a whirlwind tour of the sacred sites on Olkhon, the largest island in Baikal. Before hopping in the bus, we popped a motion-sickness pill, somewhat standard procedure on these awful roads. Little did we know they would be worse than we could have ever imagined.

We climbed into two ice-cream-bar-shaped army buses, which sped, lurching, dipping, and weaving, across a system of dirt trails that cut through the forest and criss-crossed the hilly grasslands.

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The original Russian roller coaster


I say trails because they’re really not roads, just places where past tires, hooves, and feet have tread. Clearly, our driver was top-notch. He was driving a stick shift across extremely difficult terrain. The tall hills that offer gorgeous panoramas of Olkhon also demand the most out of vehicles on the climb up; thankfully coasting down the other side is both easy and extremely fun. We lovingly referred to our trek as the Russian roller coaster, which you can get a taste of below!

Jokes aside, it’s actually a very good thing that asphalt hasn’t reached most of the island, as well as Lake Baikal as a whole. Although the lake is massive, the ecosystem of Baikal is delicate. Scientists aren’t sure how much waste and pollution its waters can take on before environmental disaster. Tourism is increasing in the area, and it presents a new set of issues: are tourists’ contribution to the local economy justifiable when considering the waste they inadvertently generate? This is the dilemma facing tour guides like Andrei and conscientious visitors like ourselves. If the roads were improved, there would be thousands more tourists crowding the lonely cliffs of Olkhon. Although the washboard gravel is hard on passengers, it actually protects the shores of the great lake from an inundation of development and industry. And for that, we will endure the headaches and motion sickness without hesitation.

Banya Bliss

After a long and tiring day that ranged from standing in awe of an amazing Buddhist datsan to visiting a children’s home, we took up our host family’s gracious invitation to visit their dacha. Here we had a special opportunity to bathe in a Russian banya, or bath-house. None of us knew exactly what to expect: we have read and seen some depictions of a banya in films and readings for Russian classes. We had this vague idea of running back and forth mostly naked between a sauna and something colder, but it did little to inform us of what the banya would be like.

The Banya

The Banya!


The building is fairly small and wooden. Our host mother explained that larger banyas can have three rooms: a vestibule, a wash room, and a steam room. Ours had just two, the vestibule and steam chamber. After a short banya crash course, we each took turns to dress down to small, but strategically-wrapped towels (which mostly stayed in place, despite the ever present threat of a major “wardrobe malfunction”). Armed with soap, towels, and uncertainty, we finally dared to open the door.
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When we did, heat from the belly of an angry dragon rushed towards us, and each of us felt doubt surge up again. Nonetheless, we forged inside and barred the door behind us. Once the shock of the heat wore off, we began to notice other details around us. The stove glowed merrily and sweating boards gave off a rich, rustic scent. As our bodies warmed by sitting so close to the fire, we discussed what we should do next. One by one, we slowly began to sweat until a prickly feeling prompted us to step outside, ending our ‘baptism’ in the banya.
 
Crossing the threshold again brought a blissfully cool gust into the room, tickling every pore as it passed. We each began to shiver as we drank some water. Stepping outside into the sun has never been so frigid! Using a banya demands one to undergo rapid switches from hot to cold, even running straight into the snow in winter. Even our much less radical change gave us a chill that got us back inside quickly.
 
This time we chucked water down a special little spout in the stove, which produced a billow of steam. Imagine the feeling of a humid blast furnace bursting across your body in a wave of heat from the head down. The air became so thick with humidity that we could feel the water precipitating even as we breathed in. The feeling you probably consider ‘sweating’ disappeared, transcending beyond mere sweat to flowing channels of moisture. As one remarked to another, “I’m not sure whether it’s awesome or disgusting, but a pool of sweat has actually formed in your belly button.”
We wouldn't ACTUALLY take a picture of our belly buttons. Sheesh.

Steamy Selfie! 


After sweating that much, you stop feeling sweaty, and begin to feel clean. At a certain point every impurity of the skin is lifted up and out: the oppressive heat simply makes it all melt away. After the first shock, the body manages to adapt to the new environment, and it feels like you are the shower, your sweat magically becoming cleansing water that sweeps away soap and dirt, leaving an entirely clean feeling behind.
Clean Selfie!

Clean Selfie!

What's that eerie sound?

While our group was wandering about the Musical Museum in Moscow,  we heard an eerie sound….
 
It turns out that the sound was coming from a theremin. There was a man playing it, and it was particularly strange because there was absolutely no contact between him and the instrument. It was surreal. Naturally, I had to know how it worked.

The thereminist and a child attempting to play the theremin.

A child attempting to play the theremin. 


Originally created by the Russian inventor Ле́в Серге́евич Терме́н (Léon Theremin), the theremin uses two antennas to sense the proximity of the player’s hands, which then controls oscillators for frequency and volume. All one needs to do is move his/her right hand relative to the right antenna to change pitch, and move his/her left hand relative to the left antenna to change the volume.
 
Near the beginning of the 20th century, Russian researchers were attempting to create proximity sensors. This eventually led to Theremin’s patent of the instrument itself in 1928. Often, the instrument has been used in soundtracks for horror films, leading to its association with an eerie sound.
 
Here’s an example of how it is played, courtesy of Léon Theremin himself:
 

Buskers and Underpasses: The Music of Moscow

Virtually everywhere I’ve been in Russia there are likely to be a few street performers. Whether they’re playing the violin along the streets of Suzdal, a flute next to Catherine’s Palace in St. Petersburg, or a trumpet in a subway car, I’ve seen it all.
 
Naturally, one wonders if this sort of activity is discouraged as it is in many cities in the United States. As it turns out, there is even an association that many of these people belong to: the Moscow Union of Independent Artists. If one of the street performers is hassled, or even has to appear in court, the Union will be there to help them with any legal trouble that they may face.
 
As a result, one can see quite a few street players unabashedly playing their music for the world, and here’s a fantastic example of a violinist and a cellist doing just that in an underground street crossing:
 

The Canals of St. Petersburg

As we were walking about St. Petersburg, I noticed how many canals there were across the city. It truly is difficult to walk around that city without going across a bridge at some point because of all the canals.

James floating along the Neva

James floating along the Neva


The fact that all of the canals had to be constructed, as opposed to already existing before the construction of the city, was truly baffling to me, and demonstrated one of the significant contrasts between St. Petersburg and Moscow, and “intentional city” versus a sprawling one.
 
However, there was an unintentional element about these particular canals. Peter the Great originally intended for boats to be the primary form of transport around the city, as one could notice with the special entrance in the Church of the Savior on Blood, and the Peterhof palace, which is most grand when approached by sea.
 
Unfortunately, as the city developed after his death, the canals ended up becoming a less prominent feature of the city, and most people ended up using roads on land to traverse the city. Now the canals are mostly used for boat tours, like this one!
 

 
As a result, before taking the tour I noticed the canals mostly as a passing feature, as I was mostly walking along them or above them on the hundreds of bridges that span these canals in St. Petersburg.
 
This perspective was flipped when I was on a boat tour along the canals of the city. It was cold that day, and as we passed under the many bridges that I had been walking over during my stay here, and I began to notice all of the entrances onto the street that were unused, and connected the dots.
 
This city was meant to be traversed by water. Unfortunately, that does not really happen much anymore.

The Most Interesting Subway Car in the World

As our group was leaving the Bolshoi Theater in Moscow after seeing a production of Царская Невеста (The Tsar’s Bride) by Rimsky-Korsakov, Лера (read: Lera) decided it might be fun to walk about for a little bit instead of going into the nearest subway station. As we walked along the city, we got a chance to see the Kremlin lit up at night, which was a pretty fantastic sight.
However, I got a bit tired, and decided to hop in the metro a little earlier than some of the group, who continued walking a bit further. As we walked into the station, a red subway car pulls up (as you can see from my metro video here, this is not their usual color).
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This particular subway car was made in honor of the 75th anniversary of the Красная Стрела (Red Arrow), which is a sleeper train that has been going between Moscow and St. Petersburg since 1931. The only interruption of service for the train was from 1941 to 1943 during the Siege of Leningrad.

The Red Arrow in the 1930's and now.

The Red Arrow in the 1930’s


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A more recent photo of the Red Arrow sleeper train


Notably, the train gained its famous color in 1962, and later, in 1965, the operators of the train began playing “The Hymn to the Great City” whenever the train leaves St. Petersburg at 23:55.

However, it gets better. There was a dog in the metro with us! I managed to pet him a bit and prevent him from getting his head stuck in the door, which I felt to be a success on my part. As we pulled into each metro station, the dog would come up to the door and sniff for a little bit, as if pondering whether that was his stop.
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Man’s best friend in the Moscow Metro


Unfortunately (perhaps fortunately), as two men left at Sportivnaya (Sports) metro station, the dog left with them, which inclines me to believe that this was not one of the famous stray dogs that wanders about the Moscow metro at night. However, the combination of the dog and the subway car made for an interesting subway trip, to be sure.

A Contrast: Victory Park Before and During May 9

One day, while I was still at my home stay, I decided it might be a good idea to wander around for a bit on the metro, and then just get off somewhere. I didn’t make it far before I decided that a station called Victory Park was the place I should go.
 
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After doing some wandering about the very empty park, I headed back home and went to sleep. I didn’t think about it at the time, but this is where a large amount of the festivities surrounding Victory Day were to take place.
 
The change was dramatic. The plaques that stated the years of World War II, so blank and imposing on the day that I had taken the photos in April, were covered in flowers.
 
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Not only that, but there were so many people there. There must have been thousands of people in sight at any given time in the park, which was in stark contrast to my last visit, where there was virtually nobody there.
 
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Eventually, I realized that Victory Park, while a fantastic park during the day, became something more than that during Victory Day. It became a symbol of Russian military might, of victory, and of the willpower of the Russian people. Nothing could have made that more clear than the thousands of people that I saw there that day. Such a presence just made me feel a part of a larger movement. In honor of that, I decided to grab a flag and join in the spirit.
 
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Tiptoe Through the Tulips

I have noticed during my travels about Moscow that there have been a strangely high amount of tulips strung about the city.

Here are a few examples:

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At the Kazansky Garden at Kolomenskoye


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Inside the Kremlin


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Near Moscow State University


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Near the Church of Christ the Saviour


I have been noticing and taking photographs of the various tulips specifically because they have been reminding me a bit of home. In my hometown, Pella, Iowa (which you can read more about here) there is a tradition of spending three days in early May celebrating the town’s Dutch heritage,  just as all of the tulips are starting to bloom about the town. This holiday is simply called Tulip Time.
 

The bike I used to ride in the parade.


Most years I would ride a bike in the parade for Tulip Time, and ever since I have started at Carleton I began to miss the festivities a little bit. However, this can be mostly fixed by stopping and smelling the tulips every once in a while. Moscow has become a bit of a home away from home in several large aspects, but sometimes it’s the little things that make all the difference.
 
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More tulips at Victory Park

Adventures into the Underground: The Moscow Metro

So it was. It was our first day here in Moscow, and we were to be riding the metro all day, in an attempt to become more familiar with it. Due to jet lag and general lack of sleep, I did find that it was a bit difficult to understand at first, especially as we were weaving through crowds, looking at the design of various stations, and making transfers across the metro on the VERY LOUD subway cars.
 
After our trek on the metro we headed back to our dorms, and tried to get some rest.
Eventually, after a few trips, I started to get how the metro functioned, and how I could get from place to place. It became a necessity soon afterward, and is easily one of the most efficient methods to get around the city.
 
Not only that, but the web that is the Moscow Metro often becomes so much a part of one’s mental map of the city that the scale of the city shrinks, and getting from point A to point B becomes defined by how many stops on the metro are required get there. Occasionally, I notice the actual, much larger, scale of the city. One of these instances came when a group of us got lost somewhere between Парк Културы and Фрунзенская metro stations. Suddenly, the distance between stations on the same line seemed a bit longer than it did within the safety of the metro.
 
Another instance of a similar vein occurred during the time I rode a bike with Kaylin and some Kazakhstani students to Victory Park, which you can read about here.
 
However, sometimes these realizations overemphasize the scale of this city, particularly when getting closer to the city center, where there are more metro stations around and about. It is a very short walk to get to the Old Arbat from the Kremlin, for example, and the fact that I often traverse through the metro to these places separately means that the distance between them was distorted in my mind before I tried the walk there.
 
As of now, my mental map has become somewhat of a potpourri of random places, all connected by a web, but not necessarily connected to each other on the surface. It’s really a strange feeling, and definitely not something you experience in smaller towns in the United States.
 
Also, as a bonus, here’s a video of a typical trip through the metro! Enjoy!